After another 6 hour van ride that could only described as “wild and windy” we arrived in Oaxaca. Tripping over potholes with our flipflops and navigating the crowded streets with our giant packs, we ultimately settled into our comfortable B&B, Tia Tere.
We immediately sought out some food (a TERRIBLE vegetarian restaurant that was awful save the best guacamole we ever ate), and wandered around, hitting up the various markets, searching out the perfect treasures. Hand-in-hand, talking, strolling. We were exhausted. Why? I had slept most of the van ride and our day hadn’t been that hard. We collapsed into our bed at 8pm, setting a new record for early-to-bed.
We woke up early the next day and I headed out for a short run. A shower, big breakfast at our B&B, and then we headed out to Monte Albon. On the way out there, we stopped by Mayordomo’s for amazing hot chocolate – the kind you get a big hunk of bread and you dip in. SOOOOOOOOOO good. I would like another cup now please.
The ruins were lovely but crowded. After wandering around, we headed back to the city and tried to navigate the 2nd class bus station (and “station” is a word I use very loosely). We ended up hopping in a crowded collectivo to the World’s Biggest Tree. It was big, very impressive. It dwarfed the church it was in front of. Estimates ranged from 1500 years old to 2000 years old. Wow. We hopped back in a collectivo and began our wander.
We found the ultimate market. I bought hibiscus leaves and horchata powder, Wayne tried a fried cricket (“It tastes like hot sauce.” Yes, like everything else in Mexico!). We strolled without a purpose, just looking, enjoying everything.
We found a Mescal Bar and one of the servers encouraged us in. Wayne got a beer, but I got a rather delicious glass of mescal – it’s in a shot glass but you drink it rather slowly, and drink it with chili salt and limes and oranges.
I was a little tipsy and ended up buying a bottle of Maracuya Mescal too. Oh yum. After, we found some food and ate at one of the nicer restaurants which was fun. After, we wandered the streets a bit more and then headed back to bed.
Following day was more running and breakfast, followed by another morning of searching for a collectivo and then to the ruins at Yagul. We had a 1.5 km walk up the road which was lovely. The ruins were impressive and large, and despite being both, were very empty – only 10-20 people were there the entire time we were there. It was pretty incredible.
After, we went back to the city for some more market wandering for the perfect souvenir for Wayne’s mom, and then sat in front of one of the churches, talking for a long time, resting. The church itself was beautiful, gold-leaf everything.
We rested in our room and then attempted to find dinner on New Year’s Eve – not an easy feat, especially since when we tried, it seemed most restaurants were on an expensive, not vegetarian-friendly set menu. We ultimately found a place, and enjoyed it – pina coladas and mescal margarita, with spinach cheese spaghetti, Oaxacan fried cheese with guacamole and pico de gallo, Mayordomo hot chocolate with bread, ice cream sundae…The square was full of vendors, full of people selling eggs filled with confetti, silly string, light-up toys, amongst the usual things: necklaces, stickers, shawls, shirts, bracelets, toys, etc. When sitting down to eat your dinner, you are constantly asked to buy things, to give people money.
At the stroke of midnight, the sky exploded with fireworks…a party indeed.
Our last night together, I slept poorly as I knew we’d be separated the next day…into two different countries for six more days. I clutched at Wayne as I slept and he held me tight. We got up early for a run during a dog followed us, and then breakfast, and packing.
I miss him already. And Oaxaca…how I miss your cheese, your cute colonial streets and churches. I miss you too.